Leg 6 - Luddesdown to Gravesend

Distance 7.3miles
Ascent 158m
Descent 220m

Today was our final leg of the Wealdway. Due to the way the previous sections had been divided, we only had about 7 miles to walk to Gravesend, but as the group is intending to walk the Saxon Shore Way next, and this conveniently starts in Gravesend, a more typical 14 miler was planned for the majority, with both the completion of the WW and start of the SSW. A few of us planned to stop at the finish of the WW, as we had other commitments later in the day. This also allowed Derek (who is waiting for a knee operation and is not allowed to walk long distances) to join us for this section.

Views from Luddesdown

Luddesdown church

Unlike the previous week, we had no trouble with the natives about parking in Luddesdown. There also did not appear to be a church service there that day, and the car park was pretty empty. The weather forecast for today was pretty good, but it was quite a chilly start.

Setting off

Entering the first veggie field

Setting off from the church, we climbed steps up from the road and entered a field full of vegetable crops, some covered by plastic sheeting. There were also a few polytunnels and some raspberry canes.

Polythene protection

Descending to cross the lane

Dropping down, we crossed a small lane and then continued to descend through another vegetable field. Looking west there was a lovely array of colours, with the white flowers of potato plants in the foreground, followed by an unidentified mauve plant, and finally the red hue of poppies in the distance. With the blue sky and scudding white clouds, it made a pretty picture (once we were passed the plastic, anyway).

Entering the second veggie field - with more polythene

Colourful stripes

Reaching the edge of the vegetable field, at the bottom of the valley, we had to step over a tiny electric fence, presumably intended to save the vegetables from destruction by Benjamin Bunny and friends.

Puffing up the hill

Walking along the scarp top

There was then a stiff climb up the other side of the valley, before swinging west briefly, to follow the escarpment. We soon left the field edge and climbed some steps into a small patch of wood, before passing under some pylons and emerging into a broad bean field, also teeming with wonderful poppies. The views to the northeast were very fine.

Is this a bean crop or a poppy crop?

Small pond

We soon reached a track and continued past a small pond. The sun was already warming things up nicely, and this, together with our pull up from the valley floor, resulted in some hasty removal of clothing layers.

Village shop - Sole Street

The track ended at a lane close to the small village of Sole Street. We walked up the road for about a ¼ mile, past a pub and over the railway bridge. The lane was surprisingly busy for an unclassified road. The route took us down a side road for a further ¼ mile and then left on a footpath again. We quickly reached the railway line and Dave realised we had gone ‘off piste’. Backtracking, we found the correct route along a path behind the houses – the WW sign had fallen off the post. It was fortunate that there had been such an obvious land mark as the railway to point out our error so soon.

Back on route - path behind the houses

Communal BBQs and seating areas

In the thin strip of woodland behind the houses, someone had built some BBQs and wooden seating, presumably for the use of the locals. At the end of the path, we crossed a quiet lane and then walked diagonally across a horse pasture.

Horse field

Overgrown field and view north towards Nursted church

Our route then skirted a rather overgrown grassy field, with views northwest towards the church near Nurstead Court. The field appeared to be used as a horse racing track as jumps had been built at intervals, but they had clearly not been used for some time as the grass was long and undisturbed.

Young trees

Summer meadow

We also passed a curious summerhouse and pond, complete with gravel and plant landscaping. I assume it is used for fishing, but this morning it was deserted. Crossing a lane, we continued along an enclosed bridleway, adjacent to a field of rampant ragwort, and parallel to Mill Hill (my birth place in northwest London, incidentally - and irrelevantly!).

Colourful lichen on the waymark

Me on the bridleway

Reaching a semi metalled track we swung due north to the small hamlet of Nash Street before continuing on the bridleway alongside a field of ripening wheat, and up a gentle incline towards a triple row of electricity pylons.

Distant views to Essex on the north bank of the Thames

Pylons & more pylons

At the top of the hill, the views opened out to the north towards the rather industrial north bank of the Thames. However, with the sun shining I thought it still had a certain beauty – yes really! As we continued across the large wheat field, the views became more urban.

Official path diversion

"Steady as you go, Maria"

The official pathway was diverted parallel to, rather than across the railway, and then descended to meet the A227. Here, Dave gave some assistance to some motorists trying to find the location of a wedding on the outskirts of Gravesend.

Tim by the A227

Under the A2

We then took a tortuous route alongside the main road, and across the roundabout interchanges under the A2. This required taking our life into our hands a number of times, as the motorists showed absolutely no courtesy or patience and would have had us standing like lemons on the pavement all day! There appeared to have been an accident on the A2, as there was some police patrol car activity and quite a build up of traffic.

Our route along the A227

Unfortunately our route now continued northwards along the A227 for about 2 miles, which was not the most attractive way to complete a long distance path. The pavement was quite narrow and the traffic fairly busy, but at least there was a cycle lane marked on the road to provide a small buffer between us and the cars.

Sundial

The walk into Gravesend was extremely dreary, although Dave did spot an interesting sundial high on the wall of one of the buildings - unfortunately the sun was behind a cloud at the time.

Civic Centre

Gravesend shopping centre

Things improved slightly as we reached the centre of town – there was a reasonably attractive area outside the Civic Centre, and the shopping precinct looked quite smart and clean. At St George’s church there was a statue of the Native American Princess Pocahontas, who was buried there in 1617.

St George's church

Admiring the Pocahontas statue

Finally we reached the banks of the Thames and the official end of the Wealdway. We had our photo taken by the WW notice board to commemorate the occasion (after accosting a passer by to do the honours for us), and then had a quick look at the Town Pier, which was built in 1834 and is the oldest surviving cast iron pier in the world.

Hurrah - another long distance path completed!

Derek & Zuka near the pier

After eating a quick sandwich overlooking the Thames, Anne, Derek & I said cheerio to the others who were continuing straight on with the Saxon Shore Way. Maria’s knee was playing up a bit, so she too opted to finish now, and catch the train home.

A quick bite to eat

River Thames

So, the 82 mile Wealdway is finished. On the whole it has been a very enjoyable walk, with a number of the legs having definite themes – stiles on WW2, ponds on WW3 and fruit orchards on WW5. It’s a great shame that it finished with such an ugly tramp into Gravesend. For walkers travelling south, the finish would be over the South Downs to finish on the sea front at Eastbourne – a much nicer prospect. I guess I’d better walk it all in the other direction someday, then!

The Wealdway

Leg 5 - Barnes Street to Luddesdown

Distance 16.3 miles
Ascent 527m
Descent 483m

The usual bunch met at Luddesdown - except Anne, who picked up Simon and Olena at Tonbridge station and went straight to the start. My sat nav picked an interesting route for me along miles of single track country lane – just my sort of driving (NOT!). Whilst sorting out which cars would be used to transport us back to the start a ‘friendly’ local turned up to harass us about parking our cars in what he evidently decided was his village – silly git!! Dave was very diplomatic, and I don’t think anyone had their cars vandalised while we were away.

Lovely summer meadow

Although we all arrived at Luddesdown in plenty of time, the journey back to Barnes Street took quite a while, and it was about 10.10am when we arrived at the start point. As Anne had picked up the others at just after 9am, they had been waiting nearly an hour. Simon had used the opportunity to have a kip on the back seat of Anne’s car!

Ready for the off

Today’s forecast was not particularly good, with some heavy showers expected later in the day, so we all had our waterproofs. The more optimistic of us (not including myself) were wearing shorts though, as it wasn’t cold.

Setting off from Barnes Street

'Weeds' in the beans

Leaving Barnes Street, were walked along an arable field boundary, unintentionally diverting from the correct route by walking the wrong side of the fence. Anne, having walked this route before, was able to prevent Dave from following a waymark down an overgrown path back the way we had come, which would surely have been the shortest walk we had done to date (about quarter of a mile!).

Through the beans towards the River Bourne

Overgrown bridge - the start of things to come!

Reaching a footbridge over the River Bourne, we swung east, following the river, until we came to a horribly overgrown path, complete with brambles and six foot high nettles. Those with shorts were beginning to regret their decision, I think! We even had to walk with our hands in the air to save our arms from being stung.

Approaching the 'nettle path'

"Hands up.....!"

This horrendous path ended at a roadway near Pierce Mill, where Simon was actually the only one who followed the correct route, which appeared to go through the front garden. We followed a lane for about half a mile before reaching the very impressive Kent House Place and farm. This is an enormous oast building, now converted into residential homes.

Kent House

Crossing the stream near Peckham Bush

Taking to the fields once more, we walked northwards through several fields of ripening wheat, before crossing a footbridge and entering the vast apple orchards of Crowhurst Farm. Anne had been here in spring and she said the blossom was then a sight to behold.

Crowhurst Farm orchards

Apples ripening nicely

Reaching Peckham Place Farm, there was a curious noise that sounded like a squeaky gate, but which turned out to be a braying donkey. We continued up a farm track and past a young family petting another donkey, and soon reached vast strawberry fields.

Dave & friend

Heading for the strawberry fields

Walking past the open end of the polytunnels, the smell was tantalising, and I’m afraid, most of us gave in to temptation and scrumped a few choice fruits. I’m not entirely sure, but I think Anne may have stayed holier than thou, and resisted the strawberries, but that might just have been because she was so busy taking incriminating photographs of the rest of us!

Val is one of the first to weaken....

Sally tucks in too!

By this time Simon & Olena had got terribly left behind (they were actually collecting strawberries in a plastic bag), and as a brief shower came over, the rest of us waited in the dry, under one of the polytunnels.

Pond at Grove Farm

Path heading for West Peckham

We left the fruit fields and continued through a corn field before crossing the A26, north of Hadlow. We initially followed a track with more fruit growing in the fields alongside. At Grove Farm there were some attractive ponds, and then it was across more wheat fields to reach the village of West Peckham, where we paused for a group photo.

Waiting for the stragglers - pity we missed the fete

Group shot outside West Peckham village

As we walked up the lane towards the church and green, we spotted a comatose Batman scarecrow lying in someone’s front garden. An incongruous site, I remembered seeing a sign on the drive to the start, advertising a scarecrow competition ‘in superhero style’. As this poor chap had his head encased in a black plastic bag, one can only assume he was not very successful, and had taken it rather badly!

Batman scarecrow

West Peckham church gates

We had unfortunately missed the village fete, which was the previous day, so we had to overcome our severe disappointment at not having the opportunity to get our faces painted or (far more importantly) getting an ice cream.

Village green

View south to Hadlow Tower

After crossing the green we left the village almost due west, on a stony track from where there was a murky view south towards Hadlow Tower. After a short road section, we entered yet another orchard - apple trees making way for raspberries. The weather was again looking fairly threatening, and so we stopped here for an early lunch before the rain moved in.

Early lunch...........

surrounded by dessert....yum, yum!

As we sat under the polytunnels, the rain did in fact start to fall. A van carrying farm staff trundled past near us, and I was a little worried they were going to come over and tell us off for picking the raspberries, but fortunately they weren’t interested in us.

"Cheers" says Simon was we swing north once more

Mind the bike! - Gover Hill

Refreshed, we continued along the field edge, alongside the raspberry canes, before swinging north on a bridleway, which climbed steadily for about half a mile to reach a junction of small lanes. From here we started several miles of woodland walking. Initially, we climbed through the National Trust owned Gover Hill, where we nearly got mown down by a family of cyclists coming in the opposite direction, and then continued through Mereworth Woods, an extensive Wealden forest.

Simon & Olena tramp through dreary Mereworth Woods

Signs of extensive coppicing

The rain continued to fall lightly as we trudged for about 2 ½ miles, first uphill and then on a long and slow descent, through the western fringes of the woods - much of the area was coppiced. This was a pretty dreary section, as woods inevitably are in the rain.

Up the drive, or up the overgrown path on Chris' left?

Narrow path between the gardens - Platt village

Eventually we reached a quiet lane and we followed this along the eastern boundary of Platt village for just over half a mile. The footpath left the roadway up a narrow overgrown path, but we initially opted for the easier option, up the adjacent driveway. Passing between some houses, the path was lined by chestnut paling, but gradually opened up as we passed further into Platt Woods.

Platt Wood

Railway tunnel - approaching A25

Another short road section and trackway brought us to a railway tunnel (where the leaders waited out of the rain) and then the A20 at Wrotham Heath. Delicious smells of grilled steak emerged from the nearby Beefeater Inn. A couple of people visited the adjacent petrol station for chocolate supplies, whilst the rest of the group sheltered in the bus shelter on the opposite side of the road.

View north towards the Downs

Yet another overgrown path

With the odd murky view northwards towards the downs, we continued along a succession of footpaths (some very overgrown and wet) and lanes until we reached the M26 which we passed under in a tunnel. On the northern side was a large scale quarrying operation.

Lorry thunders by on the M26

Sand quarry

Continuing northwards away from the noisy motorway, the route took us through arable fields, where, despite the intermittent wet weather we were having this summer, the ground was dry and cracked.

"Have I missed an earth quake?"

Tricky walking in Ryash Wood

The route then entered Ryash Wood, where recent forestry operations had left a carpet of shredded timber. This was quite difficult and slippery to walk on, particularly as it was wet. Val suddenly noticed she had lost the bite valve from her hydration bladder (memories of NDW10 for me), but fortunately after a quick search, Simon spotted it amongst the tree debris.

View east near base of North Downs

Emerging from the wood, we had a slight unintentional diversion from the correct route, and then continued on a track with very fine views to the east over undulating arable land at the foot of the downs – views we had also enjoyed on our NDW travels last year.

Taking a break at Coldrum Long Barrow

Some of the stones

Soon we reached the ancient Coldrum Stones (the remains of a Neolithic chambered longbarrow), which provided a photo opportunity and the chance for a quick break and snack. The rain had stopped by now, but it was still pretty gloomy and damp underfoot. Simon had a lucky escape when he slipped on a wooden step edge when descending the path from the top of the stones. He came down with quite a thump, but said he was OK.

View from the top of the Long Barrow

Reaching the junction with the North Downs Way

Leaving the stones, we continued climbing slowly towards the main downs escarpment. Reaching the junction with the Pilgrims Way and North Downs Way, we now tackled the only serious climb of the day, steeply up the scarp slope. It was quite a pull, and as we were enclosed on a narrow path in thick woodland, there was not even the excuse to stop for a breather while looking back to admire the view!

Climbing the downs escarpment - it was steeper than it looks!

Mercifully, the incline soon eased off, and we continued northward, on sometimes muddy paths for approximately 2/3 of a mile, through coppiced Whitehorse Wood.

Whitehorse Wood

More tricky walking - ploughed field

We crossed a lane, and then the route took us across a ploughed grass field, which was quite difficult to walk on as there was no headland. At a path junction I failed to spot that the map showed the footpath crossed to the other side of the field boundary, and so led the group along a track to an apparently locked double gate. After most of us had struggled over, Dave realised that the padlocked chain was merely wound round the gap between the gates, and was easily opened.

"Why not just open the gate?"

A quick look on the other side of the hedge, over the stile from which we should have emerged onto the road, suggested that in fact we probably had taken the best route, as the official path was very overgrown. Those people wearing shorts had already endured quite enough stinging nettles for one day!

Lie Wood

Reaching the road at Lockyers Hill

After a short stroll down the road we took to a path that skirted the edge of woodland, before descending through arable fields to the road. Walking down the lane, we passed the Kentish Buckland Farm with an unusual roof (but rather ugly new fencing).

Buckland farmhouse

Roly-poly hay bales

Climbing a stile, we were presented with a view of the lovely valley known as Bowling Alley. The weather was even bucking up and I remember thinking “this is more like it”. As we walked almost due north, diagonally across the valley, the sun even popped out briefly to add to the picture.

Bowling Alley

Looking back south

The first field was pasture, which had been recently cut for hay or silage, but after crossing a stile, became arable wheat.

Special stile for Zuka

Continuing north along the Bowling Alley

This lovely section of the walk continued for about 1½ miles, along an undulating path half way up the valley side. Eventually, we crossed a stile into another pasture field with views towards Luddesdown Court & church in the valley ahead of us.

Lovely rolling countryside - and even the sun pops out!

Val & Chris - obviously enjoying their day

Luddesdown Court, which dates from around 1100 (Saxon times), is reputed to be the oldest continuously inhabited house in the country The building itself has features from Saxon , Norman, Tudor, Jacobean and even later periods. The original church was mentioned in the doomsday book, although the current building is early English with a Norman tower.

Luddesdown Court, church & lodge

Something catches Zuka's eye

We descended the hill towards the buildings, passing some free-range pigs in the adjacent field. The pigs were quite comical because their ears were so big, they covered their eyes, and they had to stick their noses in the air in an attempt to see us. There were also some piglets in the field, although I have to confess to not seeing them myself.

Free-range piggies (possibly Gloucester Old Spot?)

Thatched outbuilding

Climbing up again towards the church, we passed what looked like a thatched privy in the garden of the Lodge house, before emerging on a driveway and walking the last hundred metres back to the cars.

Luddesdown church

I’m not sure if it was the weather, the scenery, or the delays, but for me and possibly for others, this walk was not one of my favourites. Having said that, the views near the base of the North Downs were great, and the lovely rolling countryside over the last few miles certainly meant the walk ended on a high note. I would like to re-walk it all sometime in the sunshine.

Village sign