Ascent – 420m
Descent – 447m
For today’s walk, Simon & Dennis had finally come out of hibernation, and travelled down from London to meet Anne at Tonbridge station. We also met Simon’s girlfriend, Olena, for the first time. Sally was absent as she had a family commitment up north, and Maria was in the throes of a nasty cough virus and didn’t feel up to walking the distance today. Finally, Dave had to pull out due to sad news regarding his father’s health.
An easy start across flat fields
River Medway
Starting from the lane outside the Summerford Farm complex at Balls Green, we initially crossed a number of meadows close to, but not always in sight of, the meandering River Medway. It was sunny and warm, with a lovely cool breeze blowing – perfect walking weather.
An early dip for Zuka
Gentle walking through meadows
I had been concerned that any meadows we crossed early in the walk would be very wet with dew, but fortunately these first few fields had recently been mowed for hay or silage, and were therefore quite dry. They were also very flat, which was a nice easy start to the day.
Group picture on the bridge
After walking through a field of ripening oats, we crossed the river on a concrete bridge (where we stopped for a group photo). Shortly afterwards there was another bridge – this time spanning the small river Grom, at the Kent-Sussex boundary, and then we crossed lush pasture and wheat fields to reach the railway.
Chris leads the way
Approaching the railway tunnel
The tunnel under the bridge was cool and damp and there was a very strong smell of sheep as they clearly used it as a place to shelter from the weather - there was a thick carpet of their droppings. None were actually in residence today, though. Local ‘artists’ had added their form of decoration too as the walls were covered in colourful graffiti.
The colourful and 'fragrant' railway tunnel
Our first hill of the day
From the railway, we reached our first real effort of the day and climbed the hill to the top of a scarp slope, from which the path meandered along the top in a north easterly direction for about a mile. There were very fine views to the south and south east. Both Anne & Chris/Val have walked here before and they recounted that you could see Groombridge place from here (when the trees were not in leaf) & Crowborough on a clear day (but not today as it was unfortunately rather hazy).
View southwest
Simon & Olena - love's young dream?
On this fine section we met a number of other people out enjoying the fine weather. One group included a chap with VERY bright orange shorts – we could see him coming for ‘miles’ – and a group of young girls (with their pretty dog) were resting on the grass alongside the path.
Colourful buttercup meadow
Chris confuses the traffic on the A264
Reaching the A264 we turned briefly up the road, and then down Broad Lane. Chris threatened to cause havoc with the traffic by pretending to be a road sign (he was pointing the wrong way!).
A lonely dead tree amidst the greenery
Views west over the beans
From here we took to the fields once more for about three quarters of a mile, along a flat path with fine views over the bean crop to the west . Along this section we met a man walking two Labradors – more friends for Zuka - before reaching Fordcombe cricket ground and the village centre.
Which way shall we go?
Two more short stretches of road walking, separated by a diversion across a field and past a private tennis court, brought us to Silcock’s Farm, a very fine oast house.
Fine row of cottages in Fordcombe
Passing the lovely Silcock's Farm
Leaving the lane, we crossed two grassy fields and then entered Bullingstone (or Avery's) wood, where we soon passed a metal fence completed embedded in a tree trunk. The fence must have been there a very long time, as the tree had evidently grown right round it.
Approaching Bullingstone Wood
I think that fence has been there quite some time!
The path through the wood initially descended quite steeply and then switch backed gently up and down, before dropping down again to cross a muddy stream, where Zuka paddled and came out wearing chocolate coloured socks.
Crossing the stream in Bullingstone Woods
Climbing up from the stream, we soon turned left and emerged from the wood on a lane by some pretty cottages. In the front garden of one was a historic thatched building - according to the old guide book this is a fifteenth-century yeoman's dwelling.
15th-Century yeoman's cottage
At this point it became clear that our three Russian friends had vanished. Anne and I retraced our steps into the wood, and we eventually tracked them down – having got a bit left behind, they omitted to turn left up to the road and had ended up going in a circle.
"Oh, there you are.............!"
The group reunited, we continued briefly up the lane before climbing slowly again, first on a narrow woody path and then on a fenced path between scrubby fields containing little more than weeds. Finally, a rather overgrown path brought us to the outskirts of Speldhurst. Val had already warned us about this path, as she and Chris had walked here the preceding weekend (you could have brought your strimmer, Val!).
Striding through Speldhurst
Speldhurst Church
We now descended on the road past the church and the George & Dragon pub which sports a fine wooden carving outside, and is apparently one of Anne’s regular haunts.
George & Dragon pub
Derelict mill wheel
At the bottom of the hill we left the road and walked up a drive, past a derelict mill house (with an even more derelict water wheel), and nearly lost Simon et al again (keep up folks!). There was then a moderately steep climb and then a very short road section before taking to another shady narrow wooded path. Here someone had thoughtfully left a large bottle of water marked "DOE" – clearly there were some Duke of Edinburgh award participants out and about in the locale, and in fact we were to meet them in person a couple of times over the next hour or so.
Start of the 'holly' path
This section of path was carpeted in fallen holly leaves, which must have been rather uncomfortable for poor Zuka. Emerging from the wooded path we doglegged round two meadows where an anxious horse called to her owner.
Horse meadow
Lunch at Modest Corner
While we were eating, the Duke of Edinburgh group passed us, weighed down with very big packs – I’m so glad we only carry a small day pack on our walks.
Alternating woods, and ..........
........grassy fields
After lunch, our route swung north-west and switch-backed through an alternating succession of woody paths and grassy fields. Despite it being pretty dry underfoot throughout the entire walk, at one field boundary, there was a very wet, muddy patch under the kissing gate, and Dennis in particular practised his ballet technique to avoid getting his ultra white trainers dirty.
Don't get mud on those shoes, Dennis!
In one wooded patch there was an ancient tree whose roots were completely exposed on one side, making it look very spooky.
Spooky witch tree complete with black dog (rather than cat)
Descending to Bidborough
We eventually descended to reach Bidborough where we climbed up again through the church yard, from where there were fine views over the village rooftops. It was here we realised that Simon and Olena weren’t with us – they had stopped to visit the kiddie’s playground and when they eventually emerged, they had taken the wrong route round the church. About ten minutes later we were finally reunited and could continue.
Steep steps up to Bidborough church
Bidborough roofscape
After a brief walk through a modern housing estate the route came out onto the Bidborough ridge road. To our right were expensive houses lining the road, and to our left (north) there were nice (if rather hazy) views over the countryside towards Tonbridge, with the A21 dual-carriageway snaking away into the distance.
Views north towards A21
Striding out north of Bidborough
Leaving the road after about a quarter of a mile, we descended quite steeply, initially on a wooded path and then out into corn fields, where we passed the DoE group - those packs were slowing them down, I guess.
Approaching the A21 underpass
Manor Farm
We crossed a minor road and then passed under the noisy A21, and continued through a grassy meadow to Manor Farm, another fine oast house in the hamlet of Lower Haysden. The path then took us through Heusenstamm Friendship wood in Haysden Country Park, which was planted after the 1987 storm from a gift of 400 saplings presented to Tonbridge & Malling by the inhabitants of the twinned town in Germany.
Olena crossing a River Medway tributary
Mind your head!
Meandering through meadows in the Country Park, we passed under the railway in a tunnel in which you couldn’t actually stand upright (unless you were a very small person), and then crossed the River Medway on a concrete bridge.
Path alongside the river
River Medway
Turning west, we walked alongside or close to the river for approximately two miles, sometimes sharing the path with bikes on the official cycle route. Approaching Tonbridge the numbers of people increased as it was the town carnival that day – and many of the children had painted faces.
Looking back on the approach to Tonbridge
"Can I have a go?"
Nearing the swimming pool, I had a call on my mobile from Anne, to say she had lost Dennis and Simon (again), but they were now reunited and would catch up with us at the castle. The rest of us waited by the miniature railway and enjoyed an ice-cream.
Taking a break
Carnival at Tonbridge castle
Once the stragglers had caught up (and had an ice-cream too), we continued past the castle, in front of which were a large number of stalls associated with the carnival. Dennis, Simon & Olena took a quick look at the castle ruins, and then quite a few of us sampled some delicious chilled local apple juice before continuing out onto the high street.
Sampling the local produce
Tim waits on Tonbridge high street
After crossing the high street, we rejoined the river, on a path familiar to us from January, when we had walked the Medway Valley Path. For the first half mile we were walking on the south bank, still within the environs of Tonbridge. After crossing the A26 however, the path followed the north bank, and we headed away from the town and back into the countryside again.
Leaving Tonbridge town center
A boat waits to enter one of the many locks on the river
The route followed the river closely, alongside grassy meadows, and the path was a bit overgrown or muddy in places. Zuka took the opportunity of having a swim a couple of times, although on the second occasion she ignored Anne’s urgent calls and went in right by a couple who were fishing – fortunately, they were good humoured about it.
Lazy river
Val & I battle through the vegetation
At about the 14mile mark, Simon finally decided to take up his traditional afternoon position in the group, and yomped to the front. After a further mile, we heard the gentle throbbing of a boat engine, and met the ‘hire safety patrol boat’ on its way back to Tonbridge. Strangely, for such a lovely afternoon, this was the only motorboat we saw moving on the river.
Simon finally takes the lead
Crossing a river tributary
Eventually we reached Hartlake Bridge, where a minor road bridge crossed over the river, and we had a final rest here in the shade underneath it. While we sat, we watched a couple pass by leisurely in a canoe. Under the bridge is a sign commemorating thirty hop pickers who had tragically died here in a drowning accident in 1853. The farm workers, many of them Gypsies, were killed when their wagon fell off a rotting bridge into the swollen river. Today, the river looked very benign, I'm pleased to say.
Commemerative sign to the drowned hop-pickers
Resting under Hartlake bridge
On the section of path immediately following the bridge, we passed a number of people who had obviously been swimming in the river. A group of teenage girls were sitting on the grass, and commented that the water was VERY cold. I can’t say the brown river water looked very appealing to me!
Pill boxes
Crossing the river at East Lock
Reaching East Lock, we passed a couple of old war time pill boxes and then briefly crossed over to the south bank of the river for about half a mile.
The group strides out along the south bank
Tim crosses the river for the final time
At the next bridge we crossed again, and continued north away from the river on the final stage of our walk. There were a couple of fine boats moored up a little further on – the occupants were probably having an afternoon Pimms!
Posh boats in the distance
Heading away from the river
The path followed the edge of ripening barley field. Behind the hedge was a hop field with its distinctive tall wires. Such fields are becoming rare even in Kent, their traditional haunt, as much of our hops are sadly now imported.
Hop field
Enclosed, shady path
A final section of shady path next to a field of inquisitive sheep brought us finally to the road at Barnes Green and our waiting cars. It had been a long walk today (17 miles), but as the second half of the walk had all been downhill or flat, I had not found it too physically demanding. The weather had been very kind to us – we had sunshine all day, but since many of the paths had been on shady paths, and there was usually a cool breeze blowing, we had remained comfortable all day.
Inquisitive sheep
Poplar Farm Oast house at Barnes Street
